Beiträge von Johan VDS

  • Wie behandle ich am besten Riss im Crash?

    Zitat

    Original von Enzi
    Wird das Becken aber rundum verkleinert, dann änderst Du das Profil des Beckens sehr stark. Ein 20" Becken auf 18" abgedreht hat ein ganz anderes Profil als ein 18" Becken. Damit ist der Klang auch ganz anders: Bedingt durch den dickeren Randbereich geht die schnelle Ansprache verloren und das Becken wird "gongig". Enzi


    Correct. Not only the profile will change, but also the tension. Some cymbals will even flip inside out automatically after downsizing.


    After downsizing the cymbal must be rehammered into the correct profile and tension, otherwise it will usually sound dreadful. It will also have to be lathed to give it back a "taper" (= become thinner towards the edge).
    This whole process of downsizing, hammering and lathing is the best and most durable way to "repair" a cymbal, because this way the cymbal gets a new round and intact edge and the right tension and profile again.


    Just drilling a hole will usually not help very long. But drilling a bigger hole helps better than a small hole. So better use a large drill like 8 mm instead of 2 mm.
    Very important: when the alloy is B20 the metal MUST NOT get hot when drilling or cutting out a piece!!
    When you cut out a piece, it must be a U-shape, NOT a V.
    A V-shape will easily crack again.

  • O-Zone Crash selber bauen

    There are several ways to cut holes into a cymbal, but the important thing to keep in mind (especially if it is B20 alloy) is that the surrounding metal must NOT GET HOT. If it heats up, it will become VERY fragile.


    Also, when holes are cut, the tension in the cymbal will change and to get a really good sound the cymbal should also be re-hammered to adjust the tension.


    A few pics and soundclips of "Perforation Trashes" which I made are HERE.





    I made this one from a Zildjian Z Custom:


  • Schäden an Chinas: Wie kommt es dazu und wie lange geht das noch gut?

    These cymbals were obviously tightened too much.


    Zitat

    Original von cd_cd
    Nachdem ich davon ausgehe, dass bei einem China der innenbereich des Cups nicht so viel Einfluss auf den Sound hat wie bei anderen Becken?

    That's correct with china's that have a traditional "chinese" square bell like these.


    Drilling holes at the end of the crack will however not help much.


    In this case, the best thing to do is to take two steel washers (I don't know the German word sorry) and attach them on both sides of the cup by drilling 2 or 3 holes through and then putting bolts through.

  • Hand-hammering And Re-created Cymbals

    All of those cymbals are re-created from Zildjians, Ufip and Paiste.


    The crash on the left is my 16,5" Mellow Crash which I made from a Paiste 602. You can find a pic and clip on my website in THIS folder.


    I've just sold the18" Crash on the right to a British drummer. I made it from an 18 K Ride. It is no longer on my website.


    The ride is my 20" Dark Heavy Ride 2880gr which I hammered from a Ufip. You can find it in THIS folder.


    The very loud almost chinese sounding cymbal on the right below the crash is my 18" Ripple Trash which you can find in THIS map.


    The 14" hihats and the splashes are modfied A customs, They are not on my website yet.


    I have built the snaredrum myself from plies of high grade Finnish Birchwood which I have glued together into a shell. I also made the tubular lugs myself.


    Hope that answers your questions ?

  • Kerbe durch Handhämmerung?

    Zitat

    Original von Jonas m
    finde aber trotzdem das sowas bei der "modernste Beckenproduktion weltweit" nicht passieren sollte.


    That is exactly why for the majority of cymbals I'm offering for sale, I use modern Zildjian, Sabian and Ufip cymbals, because their B20 is much purer and stronger than Turkish or Chinese alloy.


    I would make MUCH more money if I use Turkish blanks or Chinese cymbals as blanks for my cymbals (like Spizzichino does), but I want to provide the best possible quality.


    Unfortunately, Zildjian, Sabian and Ufip do not sell blanks, so I simply have to buy their cymbals to get the best alloy.


    I will modify any cymbal people send to me, but for the cymbals I sell myself I want to use the best quality of alloy.

  • Kerbe durch Handhämmerung?

    Zitat

    Original von Jonas m
    :(
    was soll ich tun?
    Mich gleich an Meinl bzw. den Händler wenden oder erst warten bis es reißt?
    Jonas


    Many cymbals have this, but it's more common with cymbals from Turkish or Chinese B20 bronze.
    It does not mean it will definitely crack, most cymbals will not. But there is a slightly bigger chance.


    Also, a cymbal that does not have any pitmarks at the surface can have impurities hidden under the surface.
    Like when I lathe cymbals, sometimes underlying impurities appear.


    Keep the picture and if the cymbal cracks there, take the cymbal and the picture to the shop.

  • Kerbe durch Handhämmerung?

    This has nothing to do with the hammering.


    It looks more like a "pitmark", which is an impurity in the metal or a defect in the casting/rolling process.


    Deep pitmarks close to the edge of a cymbal can lead to easier cracking.