thank you that's all information i need so far...
i'm probably going to sell the hats on ebay for i don't need 15".
i might try to work on the brass Zymbor first!
Becken selber Hämmern
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Yesterday I managed to get some 200mm diameter material and to transport it 1.5km back to my home with my bare hands.
I can't really move today, because everything aches, but I own my first real anvil!
Current problem:
I'm not sure about the shape of the top.
Maybe Johan can give me a tip, how to "flex (tm)" it;)On the pic you see a usual in trade Birkenstock (R) Betula (R) slipper (size 47) for comparison.
The current weight of the anvil is amazingly high!
65.6 kg!
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Congrats, that looks excellent.
Carrying 65.6 kg for 1,5 km.... are you the Hulk ?
Well you'll need to do a lot of grinding to get the top curved. The curve must be something like the shape of this character: )
Or may be just a little flatter.
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Of course I am the Hulk (tm)
No...
Today I am really out of order. I think I needed about 1 h for the distanceThe edges have to be more round than the inner part?
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Yes. Like : )
Well you probably have the heaviest cymbal anvil in the world.
Actually you can make 2 or even 3 anvils from that
What is that thing normally used for and is it steel or iron ?
Price?
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johan, what tool do you use to cut holes in cymbals.
do you use your lathe when making cymbals smaller?
what tool do you use when working with your lathe? -
This Anvil is steel.
I managed to erm... (wie sagt man auf Englisch "wegfinden";))... to get it somewhere and asked a local lathing operator to lathe it down to 200mm.
So I only paid with 2 beer for lathing
Why are you asking? How expensive would such an anvil be under normal circumstances?First real problem with hammering:
Today I started hammering this cymbal:
I only hammered (until now: all hammering done from the bottom side) some lines on the outer edge, the pitch became lower, but the sound did not get more overtones as I expected.
I also felt, that the tension became less and lesser.
I didn't know how to help myself and continued hammering more lines in direction of the bell, but suddenly, I got those kind of moving fold and all the tension was gone (like in the mini china first, but heavier).Please tell me strategies, to get tension back into the cymbal.
I guess I should start hammering from the other side, but I think the problem is, that the surface of the cymbal is stretched through hammering.
There is more way per line than it was before (I hope you can understand it). I can't imagine how to ...make it smaller again. -
Zitat
Original von Nuuk
johan, what tool do you use to cut holes in cymbals.A Dremel.
Zitatdo you use your lathe when making cymbals smaller?
Yes
Zitatwhat tool do you use when working with your lathe?
Cutting tools with carbide inserts. Ask for them in a hardware shop. You can get them in round, square, triangular shapes. The round ones are the ones I use the most.
ZitatFirst real problem with hammering...all the tension was gone ....
I guess I should start hammering from the other side, but I think the problem is, that the surface of the cymbal is stretched through hammering.
Without seeing the cymbal with my own eyes it's hard to tell what you did wrong but try to hammer the other side. -
Voilà!
The catastrophy:
Sounds like a China now
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johan, you mean you cut the circle "by hand"?
ZitatSounds like a China now
that's what cymbals are made for
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Zitat
Original von Nuuk
johan, you mean you cut the circle "by hand"?Yes, I do. After the cutting I do a lot of filing and sanding to get the holes perfectly round and smooth.
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ok, thankx...
i received some cheap damaged cymbals some time ago - wanted to stack them, but never found a really cool sound. so maybe that's what they were intended for
hopefully I will find the time to try this. -
@Johan: No tips at all?
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achtung: meine vermutung des tages:
wenn du das becken nur auf der unterseit hämmerst vergrößert du damit die unter fläche (wenn man das mal so schlecht audrücken darf). schließlich drückst du das material ja mit jedem hammerschlag auseinander. und das passiert eben auf der seite von der gehämmert wird mehr als auf der anderen. also würde das so gesehen sinn machen, dass das becken an spannung verliert, wenn du nur von der unteren seite hämmerst.
nu denn.... weiterhämmern... machst ja schließlich nicht so viel kaputt und übung macht ja bekanntlich den meister... .. jetzt aber genug der schlauen sprüche...edit: ich würd mal sagen, du hast auch viel zu viel außen gehämmert. das muss gleichmäßiger sein damit sowas nicht passiert... aber ich hab ja auch nicht wirklich erfahrung mit becken hämmer. und meine jugendsünden stell ich euch noch mal online... :baby:
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Man muss eben irgendwann mal mutig sein und den ersten Schritt machen... auchwenn es wehtut (und peinlich aussieht :D)
Aber Johan hat sicher auch mal so angefangen... aber irgendwie denke ich auch, er will irgendwie sein geheimes Beckenschmiedewissen bewahren und nicht weitergeben...
Aber keine Angst... konkurenzmäßig droht da von mir aus demnächst noch keine Gefahr -
Zitat
Original von buddler
@Johan: No tips at all?
You missed this one:ZitatOriginal von Johan VDS
Without seeing the cymbal with my own eyes it's hard to tell what you did wrong but try to hammer the other side.With "my own eyes" I don't mean a pic. I'd need to take it in my own hands and then check it. But like I said: hammer the other side. You'll probably straighten it that way. But that doesn't mean the sound will have improved.
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Now my main mission is to regain tension in the cymbal.
Sorry for misunderstanding you -
No prob.
I do have another VERY important tip for a beginning cymbalmith :
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Next time you find a ROUND anvil of 65 kg....ROLL it home instead of carrying it....then you will still be able to use your arms and hands (which are very handy if you still want to hammer cymbals)
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that was nasty
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long way for rolling
"The way of the anvil"... in cinema next year
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